Mugler presented a rather tame collection compared to recent seasons (this is, after all, the fashion house made famous by Lady Gaga), sticking to dark colors, interesting mixed textures and slick lines. Designer Romain Kremer and creative director Nicola Formichetti opened the show with models wearing what can only be described as camera harnesses strapped to their chests (Weaponizing cameras? Intense voyeurism? We’re not sure what the statement was here, suffice to say it was an interesting look, though.) but the shock value stayed low after that. It appears the Mugler Man this season is shocking in his unexpected tameness… which surely won’t last long.
Color Palette: Dark jewel tones such as navy, dark espresso browns, deep maroons and, of course, plenty of black, black, and more black.
Key Trends: Mixed materials such partially leather jackets, capes, sleeveless tunics and classic trenches and skinny ties.
Oh Vuitton. You can do no wrong in our eyes. The French house knocked it out of the ballpark again with their utterly exquisite Fall 2012 collection. British designer and style director of the men’s ready-to-wear division Kim Jones displayed a sophomore collection worthy of the Vuitton name.
The collection is described as a tale of two cities—being Paris and Tokyo, which have shared a connection in their rich cultures. The textures alone were gasp-worthy, including kangaroo fur collars, crocodile leathers and delicate yet versatile silks.
The suits were fitted and modern, tailored to perfection and worn with leather satchels luxurious enough to make every man want a murse. Geometric prints were present in the cozy scarves and kimono-style coats. A seamless collaboration of textures, the cultures of two metropolises, and style. Vuitton once again proves why they are the gold standard of the industry.
Color Palette: Classic menswear colors: camel, gray black and brown.
Key Trends: Luxurious everything. Impeccable suits with different colored sleeves (from the body), belted trenches, geometric prints on waist-tied coats and scarves, and large leather satchels.
The English brand is known for its quirky yet tailored style which has made it a hit with stylish mainstream men. The collection was exactly what we’ve come to expect from Sir Paul, and that isn’t a bad thing at all.
In fact, the array of coats alone was enough to make us crave the cold weather. From leather bombers, to double-breasted peacoats to blazers, every piece was wearable, with signature Smith cool. Pops of color surfaced in whimsical sweaters and added notes of brightness to an otherwise dark-hued collection.
The best part? Jellyfish printed loose pants. It’s nice to see that at 65, Sir Paul still has a sense of humor that keep his designs fresh!
Color Palette: Black and dark as night navies. with pops of neons: oranges and yellows.
Key Trends: Classic pieces such as leather bombers and peacoats, mixed with whimsical aspects like bright sweaters, colored shoes and cool blazers.
Kris Van Assche, the house’s style director for 4 years now, presented a collection inspired by military wear. Titled “A Soldier On My Own”, the clothes reflected the modernizing of Dior, with casual pieces replacing the traditional tailored pieces of a Dior Man. Colors were toned down blues and greens and white as well. Parkas, capes and trenches were all worn over suits and mixed-material bombers made for a modern military we would gladly sign up for. Military-esque caps worn on every model as well as the occasional pair of aviators and leather gloves accessorized completed each ensemble.
Color Palette: Muted tans, olive and navies. All white outfits as well, and of course black.
Key Trends: Casual jackets like parkas and bombers worn over suits. Classic trenches with modern twists like quilted patches.
Phillip Lim 3.1
While some fashion houses such to classic pieces, variations on them, leave it to Phillip Lim to add much-needed rebel spunk to the shows in Paris. The collection, called “Elegant Anarchist” was is utter coolness: out of the ordinary, retro-feel pieces all tied together with the easy elegance we’ve come to expect of Lim.
Models donned Clockwork Orange-esque eyeliner and serious faces as well as stunning clothes. Paperbag style trousers were worn with thick belts and ended above-ankle; half-sleeved sweaters were casually thrown on top of printed shirts, and big coats were shown worn open over it all. The colors were refreshingly airy and bright, with light grays, baby blues, muted orange and white all seamlessly mixed together. Eyeliner, short pants, thick belts and boxy coats? Only Lim could manage to combine all these aspects and make them tres cool.
Color Palette: Light grays, baby blues, muted orange, and white. All outfits included several colors.
Key trends: Ankle length trouser pants with wide belts, sweaters and shirts tucked into them, one sleeved wraps and peacoats.